Thursday, March 18, 2010

How to buy a used car

How to buy a used car - How can a used car when buying a car to buy have potential pitfalls - but it should not be a painful experience if you are a simple set of rules and check.

We bring you the essential guide for buying a used car.

Do your research

It is important to thoroughly research before buying a used car. To search for used car listings to find what you need for the model you are looking to pay. It saves you pay excessive prices, and if the price is low, be careful.

It is also important to set a budget and include insurance, road tax and other expenses, if your calculations.

If you choose a loan, it is important that you shop around for the lowest prices.

Call the Seller

Make a list of questions to the seller, and taking notes. You need the seller:

Calling the sellerHow have long possessed the car?
One car had the last MOT?
Is it necessary?
What condition is the car?
Why are they selling?
The car was involved in an accident?
What are the characteristics of the car you?
Is it in good condition?

And before you hang up, it's a good idea to see if the vendor to check on the price of the vehicle and flexible to use a fixed number for the seller.

Vehicle Check

If you have a bit of research. One form of the Data Control vehicle is the smartest investment you make when buying a car.

This analysis showed that if the car is reported stolen, has finance its outstanding (prior to settlement if it is still dominated by the financial institution belongs to him) are written off or scrapped, and that the full specification of the vehicle targets .

It also shows the price you can expect to pay for the vehicle before buying.

You'll also be able to identify this vehicle to see, so you can match the numbers on the vehicle itself (often) under the windscreen or on the floor beside the driver found.

Click here for more details, vehicle checks and how to obtain them.

Attendance

Always to the seller at their own university. Do not settle into a motorway service station fair, a picnic area or an address outside, where they live. Check the address is the same as on the V5C document.

Leaving you with you note in the notes when you call the will of the seller. This way you can see details such as mileage and taxes are the same as you told during the interview.

Revision of the car

Check check carNever a vehicle in the dark or rain. It is very difficult, dents, scratches, rust recognize, and many other defects.

If you can, take a look at the car before the bell rang. This gives you the opportunity to watch without distraction by the seller.

Always start the car with the engine cold. It is easier to recognize how startup problems, or smoke too many books.

Squatting on each front wheel and look out over the length of the vehicle. Both front wheels should be directly to the back - if not, that would mean the car was in an accident with a slightly twisted chassis. This is known as a cancer.

Check the differences between the body parts of equal - if not the vehicle can be redeveloped or a bad accident could have been.

Take a look at the tires. Are they good? The legal minimum depth for the rotation of the tires into the United Kingdom is 1.6 mm.

Look under the car under the bonnet and the carpet for rust and signs that the car was in an accident, such as welding marks.

If your car, make sure the belt properly, steering wheel and dashboard are securely locked and that all switches work, and move the front seats well.

Under the hood, looking for signs of leakage of oil on the engine and underneath. Use test strips to verify the amount of oil. If the level is low, the owner does not care of the car.

Look around the oil filling CAP mayonnaise and white matter - this is an indication of a damaged cylinder head gasket, which can be very expensive to repair.

For more information about what to check whether you have a car, click here.

The test drive

The driveYou test should never buy a car without driving it first.

Make sure you are fully insured to drive the car dealership, and take the evidence of this with you.

Before the start of the trip, the wheel of an attack on one another. There should be no noise, hit or strike.
Test the handbrake. Look at it and slowly start pulling. If not the car itself is something wrong.

Driving on the roads in many areas as possible. Use all the gears, and check the gearbox is smooth and creamy. The clutch pedal should 'bite' between the upper and middle of the pedal travel.

Do you hear strange noises from the engine, and you do not get distracted by conversations, the seller or the radio set.

Click here for more information on the test drive.

Negotiation

Take a moment to remind you that you think might work to make cars. Use this option to negotiate the price with the seller.

Ask the seller what he needs to start the car. Share indicate a lower offer for the car, then. This gives them two options - make your offer or an offer-cons.

If they seem to work, go shake his hand and accept to confirm the transaction.

Paperwork

You need the V5C document the history of the service, Insp. All must be present and correct, or you should walk away from the case.

Make sure all documents are originals - copies are not accepted.

Examine the logbook (V5C) carefully. Make sure the seller is the registered proprietor of the V5C. If not, they are not legally allowed to sell cars.

Verify that correct, and the number of the vehicle identification number.

Many dealers say stamp in the logbook, the likelihood is that the car is well maintained. It is always worth calling the garage to check they have the work done.

Payment

Get a receipt for each payment you make, especially if you pay cash. Get two copies - one for you, and they were. Make sure that the details of the car and the address of the seller and that both will be signed both copies.

Click here for important information about the vehicle fraudulent sellers.

Auto Trader links

Buy a car
Test Rides
How to check a car before you buy
Ten reasons why you need to check car data
Auto Trader Vehicle Check
Vehicle Crime Center
Call the Seller
The legal rights of car buyers "
Useful numbers
Make me an offer
DVLA V5C Registration Certificate

Monday, March 8, 2010

Nissan 370Z Roadster Nissan

Nissan 370Z Roadster

Local Launch
Queenstown, New Zealand

What we liked
>> Well modulated ride
>> Taut construction for a convertible
>> Impeccable cornering traits

Not so much
>> LED warning light system for engine temp and fuel level
>> Tyre roar
>> Moderately noisy roof operation

Overall rating: 3.5/5.0
Engine/Drivetrain/Chassis: 4.0/5.0
Price, Packaging and Practicality: 3.5/5.0
Safety: 4.0/5.0
Behind the wheel: 2.5/5.0
X-factor: 4.0/5.0

About our ratings


OVERVIEW
-- Nissan enters hard-to-reach market with flip-top Z
Very few would deny that the Nissan 370Z Roadster is a looker, although it is more attractive still with the top down. But it's what's underneath the folding-roof 370Z that sets it apart from other soft-top sports cars.

Try finding a rigidly-constructed rear-wheel drive convertible that develops the sort of power and torque and offers the comfort, safety equipment and dynamic capability that the Z does for under $80,000 in this market. There's not much around.

Based on the 370Z coupe, the Roadster arrives during the 40th anniversary year of Nissan's Z-car. The first year of the 1970s marked the introduction of the company's 240Z, which began a line of succession that can be traced to the present day. The drop-top model is a recent edition to the company's sportscar family, the 350Z predecessor being the first to spawn a variant with a folding roof. The 240Z through to 300ZX were all coupes, although there were 'targa-roof' models available from the 280ZX onwards.

Building on its own heritage, the 370Z Roadster offers some improvements over the 350Z Roadster it replaces. For a start, it comes with Track suspension standard -- not the Touring suspension of the earlier car. There's a larger rear window; more compact stowage for the roof; fully automatic roof operation (no manual latching and unlatching as in the 350Z); premium quality fabric for the roof in lieu of canvas; and interior lining for the roof.


PRICE AND EQUIPMENT
-- Keeping it under $80,000
Only available in the one level of trim, the 370Z Roadster is priced at $74,990 for the six-speed manual variant or $77,990 for the seven-speed automatic variant. Although the cars driven in New Zealand for the launch featured a large storage bin in the centre fascia, this will be filled by a satnav interface (touch screen) in Australian-spec vehicles, which will also offer iPod/USB and Bluetooth connectivity as standard.

Other comfort and convenience features fitted as standard include: 19-inch alloy wheels, wind deflector, keyless entry/start, one-touch auto-up/down electric windows, electric mirrors, climate control and eight-speaker/six-disc/MP3-compatible Bose CD audio system.

The 370Z Roadster boasts the following safety features also: ABS/EBD, Brake Assist, stability control, traction control, dual-stage front airbags for driver/passenger, seat-mounted side-impact airbags, door-mounted side-curtain airbags, seatbelt pretensioners and load-limiters.

For more on the equipment levels native to the 370Z checkout our coupe launch review.


MECHANICAL
-- Coupe underpinnings carried over
Providing tangible improvements over the 350Z Roadster, the 370Z Roadster also manages to be 25kg lighter than the superseded car. That still places it behind the 370Z coupe for weight though -- 60kg heavier for the auto, 55kg more for the manual, however. Kerb mass is 1608kg for the manual, 1618kg for the auto. Some of the blame for that added weight over the 370Z coupe's kerb mass can be attributed to structural reinforcement in the A-pillars, side sills and door/boot apertures.

In reducing weight (when compared with that of the 350Z Roadster), Nissan has resorted to aluminium panels for the bonnet, doors and boot lid. The 370Z Roadster is shorter, both in overall length (65mm less) and wheelbase (100m) than the 350Z Roadster, but is built on a wider track. Dimensions for the new car are 4250mm (length) and 2550mm (wheelbase).

Designed in a traditional front-engine/rear-drive layout, the 370Z Roadster is powered by the same 3.7-litre DOHC V6 as the coupe. The engine develops 245kW of power at 7000rpm and 363Nm of torque from 5200rpm. According to Nissan, the new engine provides more torque than the car's predecessor, the 350Z Roadster, at both low and high revs.

With its variable valve timing and lift system (VVEL), the powerplant is also more frugal than the 3.5-litre engine in the 350Z. Nissan claims that the automatic variant of the 370Z Roadster uses 11.2L/100km in combined-cycle testing and the manual is good for 10.9L/100km.

The engine drives through either a standard six-speed manual or an optional seven-speed automatic to the rear (drive) wheels. Nissan bundles the manual transmission with 'SynchroRev Match', which automatically matches engine speed to road speed on downshifts. The automatic incorporates Adaptive Shift Control, to adjust shift points to suit the driver's style of operating the transmission in manual mode.

Drive from the transmission is relayed via a carbonfibre driveshaft to the differential and on to the rear wheels, which are suspended by means of a four-link IRS system. Brakes at the rear are 350 x 20mm ventilated disc rotors and are actuated by twin-piston aluminium calipers.

Up front, the brakes are also ventilated discs, measuring 355x32mm, and hydraulic pressure is applied through four-piston aluminium calipers.

Rack and pinion steering is power assisted, varying with the road speed. 19-inch alloy wheels are nine inches wide at the front, 10 inches wide at the rear. They're shod with P245/40 R19 Bridgestone Potenza tyres (front) or P275/35 R19 counterparts at the rear. The car comes with a spacesaver spare.


PACKAGING
-- Tight but accessible
Unlike some more expensive sportscars, the 370Z Roadster is not hard to enter or exit. It sits high enough off the ground that you don't need to catapult in or out of it and there's adequate angle of attack to swing your legs into the footwells without doing yourself an injury.

The seats in the 370Z Roadster were snug and very well contoured. Recline and travel adjustment switches were placed inboard, between the seat squabs and the centre console, so they were easy to reach. This reviewer found the legroom to be a little restrictive without adjusting the seat back as far as it would go and raising the recline angle for the backrest to a position closer to upright.

Two dials for the driver's seat four-way tilt/height adjustment were located on the outboard side of the seat, near the door. They were actually quite easy to reach, far more so than you'd expect in this reasonably tight cabin.

Raising the electro-hydraulic roof was very simple and required just 20 seconds to complete. There's just the one toggle switch to raise or lower the folding roof and everything, including the latching and locking in place, is taken care of automatically.

It was, in the view of our co-driver, a 'clunky' affair, however, for its noisiness. It's only an annoyance while the electro/hydraulic roof is operating -- and that's not going to be that often in the life of the car.

The instrument binnacle rises and lowers with the three-spoke steering wheel's rake adjustment, so the view of the instruments is never compromised by the position of the steering wheel. That's definitely a plus, but the steering wheel isn't adjustable for rake, which even a car with the Z Roadster's tight driving position could use.

Minor instruments -- oil temp, voltmeter and clock -- were mounted in three pods over the centre fascia and angled towards the driver.

As far as storage space was concerned, there are two small bins, one behind each of the seats. There was perhaps enough room to accommodate a camera bag or object of similar size. Anything much larger would need to go in the boot.

On that subject, Nissan supplies the 370Z Roadster with a warning sticker in the boot to advise that not all golf bags will necessarily fit. It's certainly a small boot, but can't fit a golf bag within it? No great loss, in this reviewer's opinion. Surely you'd buy a car like this for the enjoyment of driving... The car, not a golf ball!


SAFETY
-- Pedestrian safety a virtue of clever styling
Designed in parallel with the 370Z coupe, the Roadster features additional body reinforcement (see MECHANICAL section above) and gains from safety features already built into the coupe, such as the pop-up bonnet that reduces injury to pedestrians in an impact. It's rare that a vehicle kind to pedestrians can also be attractive. Nissan has succeeded where others have failed.

Active safety measures fitted as standard include: ABS/EBD, stability control, traction control and Brake Assist. Vehicle occupants are kept safe in the event of a collision by the dual-stage front airbags for driver/passenger, seat-mounted side-impact airbags, door-mounted side-curtain airbags, seatbelt pretensioners and load-limiters.


COMPETITORS
-- Where are all the affordable sports cars?
Short list, this one. Honda's S2000 is no more and lacked the modern design and grunty V6 of the Nissan anyway. BMW's 135i convertible comes in at $79,644 and you do get a fair amount of car for your money -- including two extra seats that the Nissan doesn't have. Audi's A3 Cabriolet won't match the Nissan for straightline performance and it's a front-driver, but it is quite a rigid vehicle and has the extra kids' seats in the rear also. It's also quite a bit cheaper.

If you want the legit two-seat, rear-drive sportscar equivalent to the 370Z Roadster, you'll need to have something like an extra $20,000 as a minimum. If money isn't too much of an object, there's BMW's Z4, the Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 or the Porsche Boxster. All-wheel drive answers to the Nissan also include the Audi A5 and the TT.


ON THE ROAD
-- Focused enough, but not to the point of discomfort
Ride quality was very good overall, particularly given that Australian-spec cars are equipped with the Track suspension, unlike the 350Z Roadster which came with a Touring specification. We found the 370Z Roadster could be ever so slightly jittery over high-frequency bumps -- a function of wide track, short wheelbase and torsionally rigid body, we suspect.

Tyres were noisy on the rough bitumen roads of New Zealand. We wouldn't expect them to be any quieter on similar roads in Australia, but on better-surfaced roads on freeways, arterials and suburban streets, they may well do better.

There was virtually no scuttle shake from the 370Z Roadster. It feels very taut and rigid, which is definitely to the car's credit. The car maintained benign and consistent handling, adopting a wider line on the exit as power was applied. Steering was communicative and provided a well modulated response to the driver's input. There were no nasties, such as weight transfer or particular throttle sensitivity; the IRS was steadfast in the way it held the road.

The engine was sporty and responsive. There was a sort of induction boom at mid-range revs to really make you sit up and take notice. It wasn't as soulful as an Alfa V6, but it was certainly one of the better V6s on the market, with a sort of 'Germanic' timbre about it.

On the open road, the trip computer showed 9.1L/100km in gentler driving, but got up around 16L/100km when driven harder. In the way it delivered its power, it was responsive, but meted out more torque in the mid-to-high range rather than down low. That's acceptable; it's in keeping with the sporty nature of the soft-top Z, but it's not a lazy car in a straight line.

The Nissan's performance was helped in no small measure by the seven-speed automatic. At least one of the reviewera on the launch preferred the six-speed manual transmission, but there appeared to be some considerable support for the seven-speed slusher. Indeed, the auto was refined enough when left in Drive, but excelled when being used to shift gear manually -- especially with the paddles. It would hold the gear selected if the car were accelerating hard or decelerating, but when the engine was operating on a light throttle, the transmission would change back to Drive.

Plainly, when the lever was pulled right, into the sequential-shift quadrant, the transmission would hold whatever gear was chosen, irrespective of throttle position.

While the manual transmission was easy to use and quite precise, we'd still opt for the auto. With the shift paddles and the extra ratio, the auto Z is probably a faster car, point to point -- and that's an important consideration in a sportscar. Shifting the autobox manually, you could balance the car on the throttle as equally effectively as in a manual-equipped car and the auto variant was just slightly smoother to use at other times.

Traction control and stability control appeared to operate more or less seamlessly. Only on occasions when the warning light was flashing was the driver made aware either system was working. The electronic nannies couldn't be felt underfoot or through the seat or wheel.

Instrument layout and controls were generally easy to use, legible in the case of the instruments, accessible in the case of controls, but the rows of LEDs for fuel level and engine temperature in the left binnacle were moderately hard to read, especially in direct sunlight.

Nissan makes the claim that the 370Z Roadster offers 'bluster-free' motoring. It's not up there with more expensive Euro convertibles for that 'clear air' ambience, but it's a fair effort. We would probably rate it higher, but the jury must remain out in light of the crosswinds that were with us constantly during the drive program.

Despite sharing little affinity with those who enjoy open-top motoring (or golf), this reviewer would opt for the more expensive 370Z Roadster over its coupe sibling. You're not sacrificing spaciousness, ride or dynamics for the convertible Z, so why not? It's a real cheesecake of a car, delectable with a firm base.

If there are any considerations mitigating against the 370Z Roadster at all, they would boil down to soft-top security and the vehicle's styling with roof in place. Even then, that latter point is one to sort out on the basis of personal preference.

WHAT CAN I AFFORD

WHAT CAN I AFFORD?::

Before you head out to purchase a vehicle, it is important that you determine exactly what you can afford. When negotiating with either a private party or a dealer, you will need to be prepared to handle all kinds of high-pressure techniques. Your best line of defense is by far having already done your homework so you can stand your ground.

Taking into consideration that buying a used or new vehicle will probably be your second largest purchase after a home, you need to make sure you know exactly what your budget will support. Some basic questions you need to ask yourself are:

* What total purchase price can I afford?
* What amount of monthly payment can I afford?
* How much will I be required to put down?

By loading yourself up with knowledge and facts, the shopping experience can be much easier. After you have a good idea of what you can afford, add in some of the other costs associated with this purchase such as insurance, fuel, warranties, license, and registration.

Let's be honest. Dealers would like to sell you the most expensive vehicle you can afford but that probably is not the right choice. So how do you determine the price range that is best for you?

A good guideline to follow is that your monthly vehicle payment should never exceed 20% of your monthly NET income. Take your monthly net pay and first deduct all of your living expenses. The remaining money is what could be used toward a vehicle payment. Once you have determined what you can afford, you can quickly estimate what your monthly payment should be.

By knowing your approximate monthly payment, you will be able to shop only in the appropriate price range, and you will know if the person selling the vehicle is being reasonable or out of line.
Many Websites such as Autobytel offer loan Loan Calculators that will automatically do the calculations for you.

As the sales person starts quoting you payments, you will be alerted if they might be adding in any hidden costs.

One thing that should be obvious but is often overlooked when buying a vehicle is the sales tax. Be sure to add this figure in so you do not have any unpleasant surprises. To determine what you will need to pay in sales tax, simply multiply the total cost of the vehicle by your state's sales tax rate. So for example, if you had a vehicle with a total value of $20,000 and your state's sales tax rate is 6.3, you would be paying a total of $21,260.

Another good idea is to contact your local bank, credit union, or other financial sources to obtain a quote based on the MSRP (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price). If the payment quoted falls within your budget, then you will know that the payment is something you can afford whether you negotiate below or at the MSRP.